I'm back with some new 1/64 creations

[jakejoke32]

Enjoy the pictures, more to come soon.... Landua and Interceptor

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[HighOctane]

Nice touch with the fender flares! Beauty wasteland edition!

[toecutter]

Excellent work.

have you cast up a mould for that mm2 front ?

The wheel arch moulds are a problem on the HW car as the wheel arches are way out of scale to start with.

How are you modifying the wheel base ?

[jakejoke32]

Thanks for the comments , the front end ( in fact everything) is all hand built, no castings, i though about it, then decided i would rather hand build everything, gives it more character, as each piece will never be a duplicate. Takes more time, but the result is better, and after i did test some castings, i found after the time and money, i can hand build them easier, and faster. The wheel base is not so much of an issue, if you use a smaller wheel tire combo, as the HW are way to big and out of scale. Here are a few more pics of the landua painted. Enjoy

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[highfatalityroad]

goddamn those are good.

I would love to learn a few things from you if you don't mind.

how do you handle the wheels and how do you paint? like in what order do you do these steps and do you handpaint or spray?

looks like you are assembling all body parts, then painting, then adding wheels?

[HighOctane]

I could be wrong, but I assume he is laying down his main coat (Black) with spray to a disassembled body, and then assembles and adds some of the custom parts, and hand paints the parts that were already attached to the body when it was sprayed, then attached the layers of the car with wheels last in final assembly. That's how I would do it, and will be doing it. Hand paint in layers, starting with darker versions of the colours you want and adding small amounts of a lighter version of the colour as you work up or out, which gives the object a more real and deep appearance (highlighting) If you want to add weathering, try some dry brushing techniques to give worn, weathered, and dirty appearances to the surface of items, or even washes for some various looks of the recessed details.
Spray with a nice flat, non glossy protective clear coat to protect your work, with final assembly of the layers, (windows and seats) with the wheels dead last, depending on hard it is to hold the car while painting the details. Even for this, I would prefer to grab one of the rivet pins of the shell with a small vice grip, or clamp or fingers and have it held that way while you devil up the details with the fine brush. If clear coating, I would protect the wheels and windows from this spray if already fully assembled.

There are more than one way to get all this done, but this is the mode I will be attempting with my first builds of the Interceptor. I'm still in the sculpting stage of the front end and spoilers, and looking to get 'er down to a science, or even a basic mould, then the brushes come out of retirement.

[jakejoke32]

yeah, pretty much after i have done all body mods, and hand built all parts, i then paint everything, and re-assemble the model. i wear latex gloves for final assembly, to prevent any finger prints, and or scracthes, i use a pair of vise grips to hold the body when handling it when paint is not cured. I usually use my air bursh for painting the bodies, as the pressure pack cans( spray cans) tend to release to much paint, leaving a very thick finish, which defeats the purpose of adding all the small details. Small parts like blowers, side pipes, and such, i haind paint with a fine brush, and thinned down paint, so it is not a thick finish. i use a varitey of weathring techniques, from dry brushing, air brushing, and pigment powders both in powder form, and alos in a mixtur eof alcohol. when the alcohol eveporates, it will leave the pigment residue, great for getting color into fine detail lines like door jams and recceses, i use a flat clear on some parts that are chrome plated then paint over that, to get paint to stick, but usually will strip all chrome by putting parts in a bag, then spraying easy off oven cleaner in the bag, let it sit for an hour, no more chrome plating, all gone.

[HighOctane]

Great advise! Glad we have a place to share our ideas on this hobby stuff with the particular MM theme.

[toecutter]

For covering windows on an assembled model you want to paint or clear coat, i use small pieces of blu tac, i also coat bumper bars and plastic chromed pieces with it. its very useful for masking contoured parts.

I also built a painting stand which is a 1 foot plank of wood, with alligator clips attached to coat hanger wire, screwed to the plank. The wire is flexible and the alligator clips hold the rivet posts of car shells. This stand lets me paint any size model cars. There are about ten wires with clips on the plank.

[HighOctane]

For covering windows on an assembled model you want to paint or clear coat, i use small pieces of blu tac, i also coat bumper bars and plastic chromed pieces with it. its very useful for masking contoured parts.

I also built a painting stand which is a 1 foot plank of wood, with alligator clips attached to coat hanger wire, screwed to the plank. The wire is flexible and the alligator clips hold the rivet posts of car shells. This stand lets me paint any size model cars. There are about ten wires with clips on the plank.

More good tips. I forgot about the blue tac, as I painted an 1:64 AC Cobra with Lemans stripes like that years ago using those techniques. Worked well indeed on the contoured areas and didn't lift the paint when removing.