In Reply to: Re: Turbo Vs. Super-charging? posted by Warnerve on January 19, 2000 at 21:21:21:
: : : Hi. I was wondering, which puts more wear and tear on the engine, turbo charging,
: : : or super charging? and which is less expensive to have done to your car?
: : : Thanks for any info.
: :
: : Supercharger is better for low-end off the line
: : Turbo is better for top-end. As was previously said, it depends on where, when, and for what purpose you want the extra power. money wise its about the same, if you know where to look. There is also Nitrous Oxide to consider for that little extra boost when needed, but personally, I wouldn't put that crap in any vehicle I plan on keeping, or being seen in. There's just no pride in the crap.
: What kind of crap are you refering too? N2O or Superchargers/turbochargers or both? If you are refering to the N2O and not the Chargers you are misinformed. Do a search on N2O and see what pops up. I would rather have N2O on my car--because it only comes on when you want to. The only reason people have problems with it is because they are ignorant on how to install and use it. I have a few friends and know of a lot of people w/150k + on there odometers with a lot of N2O and Track N2O use.
: All of these systems work on the same principle. They force Air into the car. SuperChargers and Turbos have a constant strain on the Eng. I have seen guys with the chargers rebuild there engs. way before guys with N2O! Just my .02c !
Preach on Brother Nerve!
Turbo Vs. Super-charging?
-
Mr. Know it all
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 1999 4:14 pm
Re: Turbo Vs. Super-charging? (6 of one and half dozen of the other)
In Reply to: Re: Turbo Vs. Super-charging? (6 of one and half dozen of the other) posted by Javelin Guy on January 20, 2000 at 13:34:10:
: : Once again the question of Turbo charging (exhaust driven)versus Super charging(belt driven) rears its ugly head.
: : Let me began my exasperating discussion by saying what I have said before - Turbos require no HP from the engine. Glad that is clear.
: At High RPMs a Turbo WILL begin to cause a loss of horsepower due to increasing backpressure on the exhaust. Eventually, it'll TAKE more than It'll give. (Same with a blower)
-that all has to do with the power curve of the engine. In all engines the horsepower goes up to a max level and then slowly begins to fall, whether you have a turbocharger or not.
:
: : Superchargers don't just "bolt on" and you suddenly have 500HP. The same goes for Turbo charging, but the function of a Turbo is much more economical for the every day driver, because, as you may know, the Turbo is not running all the time, rather it activates depending on throttle position. So I can easily drive my turbo all day without hitting the Turbo once.
: Turbos require oil flow to their bearings, these bearings wear out quickly if you don't take proper care of your equipment. (We very seldom See GOOD USED turbochargers)
: At startup, it's recommended that you Idle the car untill it reaches operating temperature. At shutdown you also should let the engine idle to cool down before shutting down.
: Also, you must get your oil changed more often. (About Twice as often according to Motor techs.)
: Also (again), if your motor overheats, the Turbo's fried.
-Manuals do not recommend that you warm the car up to normal operating temperature, they recommend not to rev the engine until the engine is at normal operating temperature, thus not allowing the turbo charger to spool up.
: : Now, if you want to race, then Supercharging would be the way to go. And since you will be spending all of your hard earned money on engine work anyway, might as well sell the farm and get a big Supercharger.
: : Allow me to sum up:
: : Turbocharging is less expensive.
: : They put about the same wear and tear on your motor, just different parts get worn out.
: : Good luck.
: At TDC the conn rod and pin recieve a shock when the assembly changes direction (up-down). This is where most of the failures of these parts occur.
: The increase in pressure in the combustion chamber in a Turbo/Supercharged engine will actually cushion that shock, thus reducing the potential for that sort of damage.
: The potential for head gasket, valve or piston failure increases with the amount of pressure in that combustion chamber.
: Static compression ratio, boost and fuel octaine are all EXTREMELY and equally important.
: Many mechanics would call 9 to 1 compression, 5 lbs of boost, and 95 octaine gas ideal, IF your timing's set correctly for those factors..
: : Once again the question of Turbo charging (exhaust driven)versus Super charging(belt driven) rears its ugly head.
: : Let me began my exasperating discussion by saying what I have said before - Turbos require no HP from the engine. Glad that is clear.
: At High RPMs a Turbo WILL begin to cause a loss of horsepower due to increasing backpressure on the exhaust. Eventually, it'll TAKE more than It'll give. (Same with a blower)
-that all has to do with the power curve of the engine. In all engines the horsepower goes up to a max level and then slowly begins to fall, whether you have a turbocharger or not.
:
: : Superchargers don't just "bolt on" and you suddenly have 500HP. The same goes for Turbo charging, but the function of a Turbo is much more economical for the every day driver, because, as you may know, the Turbo is not running all the time, rather it activates depending on throttle position. So I can easily drive my turbo all day without hitting the Turbo once.
: Turbos require oil flow to their bearings, these bearings wear out quickly if you don't take proper care of your equipment. (We very seldom See GOOD USED turbochargers)
: At startup, it's recommended that you Idle the car untill it reaches operating temperature. At shutdown you also should let the engine idle to cool down before shutting down.
: Also, you must get your oil changed more often. (About Twice as often according to Motor techs.)
: Also (again), if your motor overheats, the Turbo's fried.
-Manuals do not recommend that you warm the car up to normal operating temperature, they recommend not to rev the engine until the engine is at normal operating temperature, thus not allowing the turbo charger to spool up.
: : Now, if you want to race, then Supercharging would be the way to go. And since you will be spending all of your hard earned money on engine work anyway, might as well sell the farm and get a big Supercharger.
: : Allow me to sum up:
: : Turbocharging is less expensive.
: : They put about the same wear and tear on your motor, just different parts get worn out.
: : Good luck.
: At TDC the conn rod and pin recieve a shock when the assembly changes direction (up-down). This is where most of the failures of these parts occur.
: The increase in pressure in the combustion chamber in a Turbo/Supercharged engine will actually cushion that shock, thus reducing the potential for that sort of damage.
: The potential for head gasket, valve or piston failure increases with the amount of pressure in that combustion chamber.
: Static compression ratio, boost and fuel octaine are all EXTREMELY and equally important.
: Many mechanics would call 9 to 1 compression, 5 lbs of boost, and 95 octaine gas ideal, IF your timing's set correctly for those factors..